The Critical Consumer

Yes yes, it’s been a while. But I have a few good ones coming for you.

I’ll start off with a glowing review of Cantina Laredo in the Gulch. This one of the many brand new establishments in this area, but I think it’s going to do very well. I met my friend for brunch on a Sunday at noon and by the time we left, the restaurant was packed. Upon arrival, though, the first interesting thing you notice is the entrance. Instead of grand double doors, they have a revolving door, which I’ve been told those are significantly more energy efficient than traditional doors. So, “environmentally friendly” was a good way to start the visit.

I was greeted immediately by the hostess, who picked the table for my group and then led me promptly to our booth. I did take a quick glance at the bar area, which is directly behind the hostess station, but somewhat separate from the dining room portion of the restaurant. That setup is something I associate with classier joints, like Ruth’s Chris or Stoney River or F. Scott’s, so I thought it was a nice touch. The dining room (and bar) are quite lively in color and decoration. The whole place has a “New Mexico” type vibe…or at least that’s how I would associate it. Lots of natural colors, sleek maple walls and tables, cactus-type plants and deliberate lighting. I am glad, though, that we got one of the booths, and I would recommend requesting one if available. Once the dining room filled up, the tables did seem a bit crowded, but no more so than you might expect in a busy restaurant.

When you are seated, you may notice a silver bowl with a few avocados sitting on the table. This is a creative way for servers to “announce” they have taken your drink order; they remove the bowl once they’ve been by to greet you and get your drinks started. So if you’re a server and you see people sitting at a table with the bowl, you know they need to be greeted, whether or not it is your table. It’s a pretty standard process, but most restaurants just place drink napkins down as the signal; I thought the creativity was another nice nuance.

The most amazing part of the meal arrives at the table first and without request. It is their chips and….wait for it, wait for it…..SALSA. Now, this isn’t just any old regular salsa. There are two bowls, both that have a very smokey, char-grilled-pepper kind of taste, but the kicker is the one that is warm. I don’t mean spicy, although it is the spicier of the two, but the actual temperature of the salsa is warm. Not room temperature like salsa that’s been sitting out, but warm. Get the idea yet? Anyway, I’ve gone on long enough about the salsa, but it’s just that good.

The fun doesn’t end there. If you order a brunch entree, you can choose between a free mimosa or bloody mary. I opted for the mimosa and it was delicious; not too much champagne, but definitely enough to make you feel like you paid for it. The actual brunch was fantastic. The portions are huge and the presentation was very classy and unique. I ordered the Crab Cakes Benedict: two large crab cakes, each topped with a poached egg and their own “chipotle-wine
hollandaise sauce”. I asked for the hollandaise on the side, just cause I like to be difficult, and added it to my liking. The crab cakes were full of real crab. I’m not even sure what was holding the crab together because I didn’t see any fillers at all. Not only were they generous with the crab, but the crab cakes themselves were probably the largest I’ve seen in a long time. I ended up taking half of my brunch home, it was that filling.

The eggs were cooked perfectly and the cheesy potato side dish (sliced au gratin style, but seasoned for breakfast) was sinful, but oh so delicious. They use Queso Blanco and Fresco, so like a combination of jack or mozzarella and feta. The duo was spot on. As a final garnish, fresh strawberries are served in a mini-cinnamon tostada shell. Very cute.

I shouldn’t fail to mention the “Top Shelf Guacamole” they make fresh table-side. My friend placed an order of it to-go and they still came out and made it fresh for her. It was a generous serving to boot. I may go back just to try it next time.

All in all, the whole experience was very unique, from the atmosphere to the service and food itself. The staff was attentive, communicative, and the manager came by to make sure we had everything we needed, another tactic I generally associate with higher end establishments. So, go, check it out and see for yourself!